Yongnuo supersync tutorial manual#
Yongnuo supersync tutorial full#
Yongnuo supersync tutorial iso#

Remember that outside, we will also have ambient light so this is not as critical – these test shots are pure flash, and the light is only skimming the background. By doing this you can move the window of light about: see how the light is visibly higher up the frame on the first shot (left) as it has fired later than in the one on the right. The difference in these 2 shots is achieved by manually varying the delay on the YN622N-TX. Tail sync still works, although you need to be even more precise with the timing:.

Yongnuo supersync tutorial full#

So tail sync will only work at all at full power, and even then they are much faster than the old style lights. Now these work like Speedlights and have a very brief flash duration at lower outputs as they have the ability to cut the light off dead rather than letting it tail off. Next I tried my new state of the art IGBT driven Lencarta 600-SF strobes. The letters “FP” appear in the YN622N-TX display when the shutter speed is above the X-Sync value.

I didn’t need to touch anything on the trigger to make this happen – it automatically switches to tail sync or HSS depending on what is attached to the receiver when it sees a shutter speed on the camera that is out of bounds (you can set this value on Nikon bodies and mine is set it to 1/160th when I have the camera in “studio” mode, and 1/250th in the “normal” settings bank).

Yongnuo supersync tutorial iso#

In the last shot, I stopped down to f/8 again, put the ISO back to 100, the shutter at 1/1250th and turned the strobe up to full power.

As I took a stop away by doubling the shutter speed each time, I put this back by opening up the lens until I hit f/1.8 and then started doubling the ISO instead, so the exposures should be roughly the same. The subject is the actual receiver that is connected to the sync port on the strobe. The strobe is on minimum power – just as it was for the control shots.

Yongnuo supersync tutorial manual#

The receiver is on channel 1, group A and I have group A set to manual on the YN622N-TX. Now we’ll swap over to a YN622N on the strobe, and a YN622N-TX on the camera. By 1/640th of a second shutter speed, the rear curtain has almost closed by the time the light gets out there. First – some control tests using the regular radio triggers:-įrom left to right: 1/160th, 1320th and 1/640th of a second. I have some old and very slow studio lights (CF-D300’s from Viewfinder) so I thought I’d try some tests. Pocket Wizard III’s can do it, and so can the Yongnuo YN622N triggers I use on my Nikon Speedlights. A number of radio trigger systems based on the 2.4GHz frequency are fast enough to do this. All we need then, is a way of delaying the shutter operation. If we open and close the shutter at the exact right time, after the initial peak of light, and just use the tail-off, it’ll be pretty even across the frame. Big old long duration studio lights have a long tail of light that takes a while to die away. If you need more power, you can always tape more Speedlights together, however sometimes its more convenient to use one big light: you can configure it quicker and use all manner of modifiers on big lights. We know we can use compatible Speedlights for this with High Speed Sync (HSS pulses the light to share it out over the entire shutter operation – to act like a bright continuous light) however this is only possible with certain Speedlights. Sure you may be able to light the subject in such a way that they are dominated by flash, and use a regular x-sync compatible shutter speed to freeze your subject with fast flash, however to get them completely frozen, you’ll need to freeze all the light with a high speed shutter – say 1/4000th of a second. Ok, so if you want to freeze action outside using both sunlight and flash, you’ll need to use a high shutter speed to freeze those parts of the subject that are lit by the sun – as its a continuous source.